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Thread: Damn what happened today, 1st track results in..

  1. #11
    Inactive Member BXSI's Avatar
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    <BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by gsrteggie:
    a set of motor mounts and a real suspension will also calm the wheel hop. I have never had wheel hop in the integra... except on real wet pavement (that was before the motor mounts).

    You do want to calm those wheel hops somehow. That is a straight one way first class ticket to a tranny and engine rebuild.
    </font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>

    I never knew wheel hop could do engine damage i just thought my mounts were taking the brunt of the hit. thanks for the reply i think i will order the energy suspension insert kit tommorrow.

  2. #12
    Inactive Member cpa's Avatar
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    Don't get discouraged, there's more in there. Your street tires are absolutely a problem. When I used them my 60' times were horrible and inconsistent like yours, 2.4-2.7 and wheel hop with 9.7ish 1/8th times. With a set of BFG drag radials and no other changes, 2.1-2.2 all day long and down to 8.8s after the driver improved too, and that's in a parking lot converted for a 1/8th mile track.

    Also, if you haven't (and if you don't want to do suspension work), pump up your rear tires as high as you can, I run my rear azenis at 50 psi when I go. Your tires you have now may not do any better at 20 psi in front either, they're not made to operate that way so you might be getting worse traction. My similar times were at 30-35 psi or so on street tires.

    I think the motor mounts and some drag radials are the cheapest and easiest things you can do to get a better launch and consistency and get rid of the wheel hop.

    Not to steal the thread, but how much difference can a suspension setup make compared to stock? I'm not talking a drag only setup on a street car, but a typical adjustable shock, stiffer spring setup? (i.e. koni/kyb/tokico with eibach, ground control, etc.)

  3. #13
    Inactive Member Max Psi GSR's Avatar
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    <BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by cpa:
    Not to steal the thread, but how much difference can a suspension setup make compared to stock? I'm not talking a drag only setup on a street car, but a typical adjustable shock, stiffer spring setup? (i.e. koni/kyb/tokico with eibach, ground control, etc.)</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>

    With only NEUSpeed Race springs as my suspension mods, i could run 9.0's farily easy at 6psi. After i installed some Koni yellows, OPM Coilover conversion kit, and some Eibach springs that were rated at 400lbs for the front, and 600lbs for rear i could easily do 8.8's. I would also stagger my front tire psi with around 22 in the driver front, and about 16-18 in the pass. front. It worked well with the OE diff, and seemed to help out as well with the Type R diff. My Koni settings were full hard in the rear while the fronts seemed to work best at about 50%(1 turn). Also, disconnecting an endlink on the front swaybar helped wheel hop, but mainly the higher rate front springs helped.

    I tried flipping my springs(since there were interchangeable)from 400/600, to 600 front, 400 rear. It seemed to promote less traction, so i switched them back. Keep in mind, this wasnt a "drag setup", but rather an autox/OT setup. The Koni's were valved a little bit better to handle the 600lb springs and the shafts were shortened to attain more wheel travel. The Yokohama A032R RoadRace tire was the tire i had the most success with, 60ft's being 2.06-2.08's.

    Practice practice practice practice! I found that when i was getting a good launch i was right on the verge of dashing bouncing(wheelhop), but i just slooowly rode it out in first, then 2nd-3rd-4th shifting about 200rpms away from redline.

    Good luck

    P.S. Dont let your car get stolen.....its happend to me and theres nothing like the police calling you and saying; "Uhhh, we found your car......(can i come get it!?!?)......well, the motor isnt in in the car....... ( [img]graemlins/cry.gif[/img] )

  4. #14
    Inactive Member Max Psi GSR's Avatar
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    ...HEY! Dont feel bad about the Michelin tires, everyone knows they suck. How bad? I went 9.02@87mph with 1/2 worn XGT's.........switched to that Yoko tire..... 8.4@88/8.5@88. Yea, they're that bad. [img]tongue.gif[/img]

  5. #15
    Senior Hostboard Member JRCivic's Avatar
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    Wink

    It appears that you need to improve two things here and the track times will come down significantly: 1) Some better tires. Switching to a Drag Radial or True slick will increase traction... making the 60' times more consistent as long as you drive the car consistently... which brings us to 2) The driver. 1/4 mile track driving is not as easy as everyone thinks... and 99.9% of ALL drag-strip races are won or lost in the first 60'. You need to practice more and really focus your efforts on inproving your launch and driving the car through 1st gear and through the 1-2 upshift. After that, all you have to do is make sure you don't miss a gear or cross the center line and the race is over.

    As for the trap speeds: 103 is indicative of a 13.90's pass on radials. Your hope of having terminal speeds in excess of 110 mph is optomistic: The only way you would get trap speeds that high with the HP you are making is if the car/driver package weighed about 2500 pounds. You stated that your car was not stripped... which means that it weighs nearly 2700 pounds all by itself !!! Throw in a tank of gas and your own body weight and you will have a legitimate "race weight".

    One sure way to really diagnose the problems is to actually WEIGH your car with a full tank of gas... use a certified scale at a truck stop. This will allow you to make some general mathematic calculations to see if you are reaching the car's potential or YOU (the driver) are the reason that the times are less than stellar.

    It is easy to blame the car, the engine, the blower, the tires, the track conditions, the weather, etc. etc. etc... we don't want to blame ourselves. Also remember that those that make the very fastest times are willing to sacrifice the car to do it... each of us have left a steady trail of broken parts in our wake. heheheh I myself have exploded a stock GSR transmission and broken at least three axles in my three year history racing the Hybrid H/B listed in my signature. You have gotta "drive it like you stole' it" if you want to reach the times that make you proud. If you baby the car a bit, understand that you have left a few tenths on the table and be happy with that.

    Sometimes the truth hurts all of us.

  6. #16
    Inactive Member gsrteggie's Avatar
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    I'm nice to my car, so I have never broke any parts. To me it just is not worth it.

  7. #17
    Senior Hostboard Member JRCivic's Avatar
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    Wink

    The car weighs 2320 with a full tank of gas... and I add 175-180 to the mix as the driver making a grand total of 2500 pounds at the line. The car makes a bit over 240 wheel HP, although my best dyno sheet only shows 237. I use a 22x8x15" slick with 12 psi air pressure in it.

  8. #18
    Inactive Member BXSI's Avatar
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    hey Jim your right i do take most of the blame cuz i went in to cocky thinking i was gonna be 13's all day for sure. I know i need some practice now, and it definitly ain't as easy as it seems. BTW do you mind telling me what your hatch weighs in race form and how much power you make. I would just love to trap 110 one day.

  9. #19
    Inactive Member CivicR's Avatar
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    It's just not drag racing until you break something [img]graemlins/grrr.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/car.gif[/img] If you cannot handle broken parts you should not be at the track!! [img]wink.gif[/img]

  10. #20
    Inactive Member gsrteggie's Avatar
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    intentionally doing stuff that will break your car is not what defines drag racing. Beind able to race and win without breaking your car is.

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